Make Up: XXth Century Trends
For better understanding of the makeup peculiarities of every season, let’s take a quick excursus into the fashion of the previous century.
I want to pay your attention on to the fact there are various trends in the frames of every described period. That’s why the contradictions that can appear ex facte are the enumeration of the trends distinctive features linked to the strata of society, years, events and so on.
So, if it’s necessary, the trends will be stood out additionally in the network of every period.
And now… let’s pass on to the brief resume of the world of images of the XXth.
The beginning of the XXth century – the end of the First World War.
Image peculiarities: the modesty itself and cordiality, sweet girl, selfless mother.
Eyes: barely-skin-touched makeup and transparent vaseline gloss.
Lips: the same vaseline.
Face: naturalness created with the help of pink powder.
Hair: before the war – coquettish locks, during the war – parted accurately.
Years representatives: Lillian Diana Gish, Djuna Barnes.
The twenties. Postwar time. Decadence.
Image peculiarities: vamp, boldness.
Accents: emphasized eyes and lips, using of the rich colors.
Eyes: eyeliner of the rich color (bright-blue, emerald green or violet); mascara matches the color of the eyeliner (bright-blue eyeliner and bark-blue mascara and etc.).
Eyebrows: plucked out brows are colored into the accurate black line with the lowered end.
Lips: lips are clearly countered. The lipstick is bright-red or rich-red. Lips are heart countered often.
Face: quite tender blush is applied as a round spot. The skin is smooth and matte.
Hair: short boyish haircut, accurate parting, with fringe or without, waves or straight hair.
Years representatives: Gloria Swanson, Theda Bara, Pola Negri, Constance Talmadge, Mary Louise Brooks, Clara Bow, Marjorie Brooks.
The thirties. Goddesses in men’ trousers.
Image peculiarities: refinement.
Eyes: eye are countered alone the lower and upper eyelids touching on the eyes corners. Lashes are thick and long (fake lashes are put on).
Eyebrows: thread-shaped plucked out brows, very thin and carefully semicircle-penciled .
Lips: accurate outlining. The colors are subdued.
Face: Cheek bones are emphasized with accurately shaded rouge.
Hair: chin-length wavy or straight hair cuts.
Years representatives: Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Joan Bennett, Jean Harlow, Vivien Leigh, Lee Miller, Edith Norma Shearer, Joan Crawford.
The Forties. The World War II.
Image peculiarities: adult and sensitive, not frivolous and not provocative.
Eyes: mascara on lashes mainly.
Eyebrows: thin, flying and accurately outlined. Closer to the end of the War brows become more natural.
Lips: bright rich red lipstick.
Hair: hair is pinned up on the back of the head or above the forehead so that the head looked thin and long. Knots arranged on the back of the head was also very trendy including long barely waved hair from time to time.
Years representatives: Ingrid Bergman, Bette Davis, Veronica Lake, Ellen Parker, Lauren Bacall.
The fifties. Romance is in the air.
Image peculiarities: romanticism, exaggerated femininity.
Accents: lips or eyes and brows.
Eyes: minimalism – thin, hardly seen contour along the upper lid or deep expressiveness at the expense of the use of the rich-colored eye shadows.
Eyebrows: brows are quite dark and refined. They are not very thin and they look theatrical.
Lips: lips are bright and alluring. The lipstick is provocatively red.
Face: the face looks pail due to the thick (and even visible at times) layer of powder. Patches are very popular.
Hair: smooth or wavy. The hairdos are shortly cut, chin-lengthed or shoulder-lengthed. Chignons and fringes are in vogue. Blonds are in fave.
Years representatives: Brigitte Anne-Marie Bardot, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, Gina Lollobrigida, Sophia Loren, Grace Patricia Kelly.
The sixties. Sexual revolution.
Image peculiarities: emancipation.
Eyes: the doll-like eyes are deeply outlined – sharp lines. Lashes are long and made up with the thick layers of mascara. Eyeshadows are of all the possible beige hues. the effect of the naïve look and big opened eyes.
Lips: natural with gloss on instead of lipstick.
Eyebrows: the brows are of natural form to the maximum.
Face: the face color is irreproachable with minimum make-up layer.
Hair: hair cuts of the geometrical shape, round the head cuts, upsweeps, ponytail, long and smooth hair.
Years representatives: Twiggy, Jane Seymour Fonda, Julie Christie, Mia Farrow.
The seventies. Hippy are the flower children.
Image peculiarities: romantic image in combination with the folklore fashion and ethnic – military-, punk-styled accessories.
Accent: eyes or complete chaos on the face.
Eyes: 1. Eyes are strongly contoured, eye shadows are very bright, lashes are heavy with mascara. Or 2. as an alternative for a business lady – the lack of make-up (flash-colored). 3. Wild shock tints (punk style).
Eyebrows: natural, thick and tousled.
Lips: 1. Maximum naturalness, lipstick is natural as well. 2. Extremely hues (punk style) – black or green.
Face: healthy look.
Hair: perm, thick mane and irreproachable haircut, tails, Mohawk haircut of crazy colors, or horn style haircuts.
Years representatives: Catherine Deneuve, Liza Minnelli, Jane Mallory Birkin, Angela Davies, Nina Hagen, Patricia Lee Smith.
The eighties. Disco style.
Image peculiarities: activity, healthy life style.
Accent: there are no accents per se. All the face parts are smoothly made up more or less.
Eyes: the use of the bright well-shaded shadows along the lids. No sharp contours.
Lips: diverse color gamut. No sharp contours.
Face: healthy fresh look.
Hair: luxuriant long hair, backcombing.
Years representatives: Madonna, Meryl Streep, Cher, Iman. The eighties mages.
The nineties. Anti-fashion.
Image peculiarities: individuality.
Face: the face as if just washed up – fresh and natural with a stroke of gloss.
Hair: riot of color and chaos of forms, ponytails arranged into the knot, pageboy cut and curls.
Years representatives: Courtney Love, Sharon Vonne Stone, Björk, Jennifer Aniston, Julia Roberts. The nineties images.
These are the dominating trends of the XXth century! And having them as a background, it’s obvious to trace the makeup current preferences.
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